After months of planning, our great South American adventure was finally here! An early start, a long flight and a slightly baffling airport Uber collection later, we arrived in Bogotá. Let the exploring begin…

Colombia’s first challenge? Hills. Lots of them. My sciatica and I exchanged nervous glances.

Bogotá: gold, emeralds and generously proportioned people

Bogotá introduced us to Colombia’s treasures: gold, emeralds and the wonderful art of Fernando Botero. His people and sculptures have unmistakably generous proportions. Apparently, it’s all about volume and presence. I may borrow that explanation myself.

Honda: the five-hour journey that wasn’t

Our bus to Honda was continuing to Venezuela, and seemingly everyone except us had brought enough shopping to stock a department store. Between cargo checks and stops for yet more boxes, five hours became eight.

Hot and weary, we hauled our bags uphill, retrieved our accommodation keys… and couldn’t open the door. The owner’s uncle eventually came to the rescue. Inside: no air conditioning and 35-degree heat. Sleep was ambitious.

Once a bustling port on the Magdalena River, Honda now moves at a rather slower pace. Except, apparently, when you’re trying to cool down.

Medellín: colour, courage and a fresh start

Cooler Medellín brought a remarkable change of scene. A city once notorious for Pablo Escobar has another story to tell, particularly in Comuna 13.

Here, young people have helped transform a neighbourhood scarred by violence through art, music and dance. Its colour, energy and determination were inspiring. The past hasn’t disappeared, but neither has the community’s resolve to build something better.

Coffee country: looking up

Next came a small coffee farm and a fascinating tour, followed by a walk among the Cocora Valley’s extraordinary wax palms, which reach up to 60 metres.

Then an Andean condor swept past. Twice. Even those skyscraper palms struggled to compete with that.

Buga: miracles and feathered wonders

Buga’s impressive pink basilica is a pilgrimage destination with quite a story. According to tradition, a young woman gave away her crucifix savings to rescue a debtor. Later, a tiny crucifix floated towards her in the river—and subsequently grew to life size. Miracles have been associated with it ever since.

Our highlight was nearby Laguna de Sonso, where an enthusiastic young bird guide helped us spot a dazzling variety of birds. Colombia added 28 new species to our lifetime list!

Cali: salsa and cats

Cali brought salsa spirit, warm weather and an entire park of cat sculptures. Sarah approved wholeheartedly. We missed the weekend dancing, but enjoyed the city’s energy—and its rather less demanding feline residents.

Pasto: a peaceful lake and an unwelcome encounter

From hectic Pasto, we escaped to beautiful Laguna de la Cocha for a boat trip, coot-watching and views of trout restaurants lining the water.

Leaving town brought a less welcome encounter: a passing motorcyclist tried to snatch Sarah’s bag. Thankfully, he failed, and we left with all our belongings.

Now we’ve crossed smoothly into Ecuador, ready for the next chapter. Colombia has given us spectacular scenery, wonderful wildlife and a strong suspicion that “five hours” is sometimes more of an aspiration than a timetable.